The Scenic Route to Bodie

Although Bodie -- and roads to Bodie -- don't appear on some California maps, DeLorme's TopoUSA 2006 software found it right away and plotted the short 30 mile detour to get there. The route began in Bridgeport on Aurora Canyon Road. It seemed like a simple matter: Aurora Canyon Road to Bodie; then back to Hwy 395. How hard can that be, right?

The cloud of dust billowing up from the road ahead was exactly what we didn't want to see. What started out as a nice asphalt road had degenerated into a primitive 4WD trail leading up into the heart of California's White Mountains. The cloud of dust meant we were about to meet someone heading down this trail in the opposite direction -- a problem since we were using just over 8 feet of its 9 foot width. Fortunately for us, the oncoming vehicle was a Jeep Wrangler well-suited to drive down an embankment to make way for us. As we rumbled past, its two occupants looked up at us as one might look up at supertanker from a tiny sailboat, wondering what took it so far off course. Most people would have had the good sense to turn around awhile back but we had a couple factors working against us: the lack of any place to turn around a 26 foot 13,000 pound truck with camper; and my complete lack of good sense.

I was beginning to understand why Bodie was so well preserved. We continued on, at one point fording a stream, and climbing nearly 3,000 feet in 11.5 miles. The trail had become so steep that both my engine and transmission were on the verge of overheating.

"Are we going to sleep here?" queried The Boy with a faint trace of hope in his voice.

“NO.”

“Lewis, your father is trying to drive right now.”

The trail ultimately reached the ridgeline where it continued on, taking us up past 9200 feet. The views of the Sierra Nevada range to the west were breathtaking. In retrospect, I wish I had taken a few photographs along the way but at the time I was more focused on not puncturing a tire or blowing up my truck. We were still only two-thirds of the way to Bodie but my glass was half full because, since passing the Wrangler, we had yet to encounter any other vehicles along the trail. If we actually made it to Bodie we might have the whole place to ourselves!

The next few miles went quickly. The trail improved and my mind was now occupied with thoughts of how we should best enjoy the solitude of the old deserted mining town. At long last, our truck rounded a curve and laid out below us was the ghost town of Bodie. We could see the abandoned mining operation and the weathered old buildings lined up along dirt streets. There was a church and a little cemetery on a hillside. But what really caught my attention was the parking lot with the forty or so cars in it. New cars. That’s right. There were more people in Bodie now than when it wasn’t a ghost town...and they all took a paved state highway to get here.