The Dad, The Mom, & The Boy

The Grotto is a picnic area and also the trailhead for the hike up to Angels Landing. At the end of March, it is one of my favorite places in Zion because of the trees. There is something beautiful about the dark form of the cottonwood trunks visible through the new leaves, which glow in a brilliant lime green as they are backlit by the morning sun.

My Mom captured this shot of Darla, Lewis, and me by the shuttle stop.

Zion's Spring Palette

Papa T at the Shuttle Stop

From late spring through the end of summer, private vehicles are not allowed to enter Zion Canyon. Instead, the park service operates a shuttle service. This was the final week of free access to the canyon. Having our own vehicle was convenient but finding a place to park was often a challenge.

The Trees of The Grotto

I love this image, one of my favorites from this visit to Zion. I took many different shots in an attempt to capture colors and forms in this image. Unfortunately, this shot wasn’t one of them. Credit for this image goes to my mom.

The Boy Finds Something To Climb

Show Me Your Muscles

One Switchback Ahead

Lewis enjoyed being a switchback ahead of Mimi and The Mom so he could look down on them from his superior perch.

While it is the payoff at the end of a trail – a spectacular view or a unique geological feature – that usually makes a hike worthwhile, it is the hike itself that leads me to rate Hidden Canyon Trail as the second best in Zion. The trail, which climbs 850 feet up the side of Zion Canyon, is spectacular.

“Lewis, wait for your fath…Tim! He’s too close to the edg…Lewis! Stop right there!”

Despite being 50 yards behind, The Mom remained in constant communication with The Boy and The Dad.

The Mom

Now That’s a Drop Off!

About halfway to Hidden Canyon, the paved trail disappears. In its place, a narrow ledge has been carved into the sandstone. It is steep and a little slippery due to a thin layer of sand on top of the path. This is the point at which a lot of folks turn around.

A Long Way Down

You might think The Boy is taking in the incredible view or marveling at how far up we have climbed. In actuality, he is looking for something much more specific. About 150 yards back, a water bottle had worked its way out of Darla’s pocket and went crashing down toward the canyon floor. The Boy heard the commotion but missed seeing the bottle plunge over the edge. He was desperate to locate it.

Group Portrait

Darla Peeks Over the Edge

View From the Edge

“Mommie, You’re Hurting My Wrist.”

This is the final approach to the entrance of Hidden Canyon. We were almost there and Lewis had done a great job. Darla and I weren’t sure how he would react to this trail. Would he be intimidated? Would he get to the point where he refused to go any farther? While he was respectful of the edge and often cautious, he never seemed fearful.

Of course, cautious or not, The Mom maintained a death grip on The Boy's wrist...

Entrance to Hidden Canyon

Hidden Canyon is a moderately narrow slot canyon that is reached via a little bit of scrambling through the narrow, shaded entrance in the background of this image. The cool shade can be refreshing on a hot summer day but it is otherwise unremarkable. We skipped it this time.

Motivation is Everything

This was our stated purpose as we set out on our hike: To walk up to Hidden Canyon so that we could throw rocks into this pool of water and make big splashes. The Boy was fully on board.

Watch Your Step

Mom Frames A Shot

I Want My Rock

Papa T & The Boy Take The Lead

One Less Spider On the Bridge

Our Campsite

Zion has two campgrounds: Watchman and South. Located next to each other on either side of the visitor center, they’re roughly comparable and nothing special. Both campgrounds are located at the park entrance away from all the action.

We were in South Campground this time.

Smiling Boy

Each of the campsites is separated by an irrigation ditch. They look pretty small from the captain’s chair of a 40’ diesel pusher – or so I would assume based on the fact that a guy piloting one of these beasts decided to drive right through his neighbor’s trench in an effort to simplify the process of parking his rig. He got himself hopelessly stuck and ended up having to call a giant tow truck. You see some crazy stuff in campgrounds.

Just Step Across…

The trenches represented an obstacle to The Boy as well, who could not bring himself to simply step over them to get back and forth between our camper and Papa T’s trailer.

That Will Work Too!

His solution was more fun.

Jumpin’ Boy

Unscheduled Stop

We decided to end our day with a hike to Middle Emerald Pool. This was another two mile walk – but a much easier one than Hidden Canyon Trail. Having said that, we were beginning to suspect that The Boy might be reaching his limit. Without saying anything, he stopped and laid down on this rock.

Valley View

We waited just a little too long to start this walk. In late afternoon, with the sun still above the canyon walls, the light can be quite dramatic. By this time, the sun had long since dropped out of sight.

The Boy & Papa T Arrive

Normally, The Boy and Papa T would be at least ankle deep in water. Not this year. It had been a very dry winter. There was not much to Middle Emerald Pool right now.

Group Shot

There was time for one group shot by Middle Emerald Pool, such as it was, before turning around and heading back. It was getting dark fast. It would be completely dark by the time we reached our vehicle.

The Three Patriarchs

I’ve never seen the Three Patriarchs look more majestic than they did in this early morning light. Although the color palette and the ecosystem are completely different, Zion Canyon can be very reminiscent of Yosemite Valley.

Wild Turkey

Except for the occasional deer, I rarely see wildlife during the day in Zion. Early morning is a different story. On my last two spring trips I’ve seen wild turkeys and also porcupines.

This turkey was one of seven or eight that were walking down the middle of the road. They made quite a racket as they walked by. Many of the males were in full strut, their lower feathers dragging along the pavement as they tried to impress the females.

Angels Landing Trail

Much can be said about Angels Landing. Anyone who has climbed it will tell you so with pride. The views are awesome – but it can also be incredibly intimidating to anyone with a fear of falling…or death…or falling to their death. OK, maybe I exaggerate a little – but just a little. Two of my last three climbs to the top have been within a month of someone dying on the trail.

The two and a half mile climb to Angels Landing starts out along the Virgin River before ascending up the canyon wall. The trail becomes brutally steep right here, at the entrance to Refrigerator Canyon. This is, for me, the hardest part of the hike.

The South End of Zion Canyon

Walter’s Wiggles

The walk through Refrigerator Canyon is relatively flat and gives hikers a chance to catch their breath before hitting Walter’s Wiggles at the other end. Much is made of this steep set of 21 switchbacks but it really isn’t that far to the top of them. This is not to say that I didn’t need to catch my breath a couple times on the way up.

Dad garnered quite a few admirers on the way up to Angels Landing, including several people he met on the wiggles. They all echoed the same theme: They hoped to be in as good a shape as he when they reached his age – or even at their current age. Dad is almost 69 here.

Indian Paintbrush

The depth of field is a little too shallow for my taste on this shot. Not my best work. Having said that, I like the way Indian Paintbrush always seems to glow when it’s photographed.

Turning Point

The first time my dad and I climbed Angels Landing we looked at the “final brutal climb along the spine of a razor-like ridge” (to quote Frommers) and turned around. Dad will tell you he turned around because he couldn’t see how to get across the narrow land bridge to the final section of trail; my recollection is that I could see how we were supposed to get across and I wanted no part of it.

In fairness to myself, I should point out that about half the folks who get to this point turn around. Some get a “you got to be kidding me” look and turn around immediately; others pace around a bit first.

1500 Feet Down

I’ve always thought the chains on the Hidden Canyon trail are there primarily to make hikers feel better. Not so on Angels Landing. In several spots the chains are used to pull yourself up the “trail”.

Since turning around on my first hike up, I’ve been to the top three times. I discovered that the secret – for me at least – is to avoid looking too far ahead. Instead, I focus on the 20 feet immediately in front of me. It’s never as bad as it looks from a distance.

Mission Accomplished

…and we made it!

Angels Landing

Taking in the View

Early morning is the best time of day to hike to Angels Landing. This is when the light is prettiest; and, during the summer, you beat both the heat and the crowds. There’s nothing worse than trying to pass a steady stream of hikers headed in the opposite direction on an exposed ledge.

The Climb Down

Dad (lower left) decided to start down ahead of me. I’m taking a few extra minutes to enjoy this northward view of Zion Canyon. From this perspective it is easy to see why Refrigerator Canyon, in the shadows to the left of the image, stays cool most of the day.

The two and a half miles back to the canyon floor went quickly – a good thing as it turned out. When we returned to our campsite we discovered that Lewis was running a 105 degree fever. This visit to Zion was over. We needed to get to an urgent care facility in St. George as soon as possible. The Boy ended up having strep throat. We would eventually regroup and head to Bryce Canyon National Park.